Chattanooga Charm: Tennessee's Scenic City delights, from Rock to River to Rail

Chattanooga has long been on the map for seeing Rock City and Ruby Falls, those nostalgic hot spots that surely conjure up vacation memories for anyone living in the South. And then there’s the Chattanooga Choo Choo, immortalized by King of Swing Glenn Miller, whose chart-topping song paid tribute to magical transport by steam locomotive, as it chugged its way from Pennsylvania Station to the Dynamo of Dixie. But with a splashy new $120 million waterfront transformation making waves around the country, the city itself is stepping into the spotlight, enjoying a downtown renaissance with its riverfront redevelopment.

Chattanooga’s 21st century branding as “A Great City by Nature” couldn’t be more fitting for the present, past or future. Perched on the banks of the Tennessee River at the junction of the Appalachian Mountains and Cumberland Plateau, this scenic sanctuary in southeast Tennessee is surrounded by natural wonders. Just a stone’s throw from downtown (and a two-hour hop from Atlanta), Lookout Mountain has been thrilling visitors since the 1930s with its unusual geological features, both inside and out. Ruby Falls’ famous 145-foot waterfall thunders more than 1,000 feet beneath the mountain’s surface. Atop the summit, Rock City Gardens is a showcase of botanical beauty, boasting enchanting trails, bizarre boulders, and a seven-state view – a Civil War speculation that overstated its range by a state or two, but is fun to scope out

nonetheless. The Incline Railway, a national historic site referred to as “America’s Most Amazing Mile,” has been transporting riders up and down the mountain since 1895, with a 72.7% track grade making it the steepest passenger railway in the world. As precarious as the drop looks from the top, it’s a smooth 10 mph ride down in a trolley-style railcar, offering a picture-perfect panorama of the Chattanooga Valley. (For a real bird’s eye view – and a bit more daring, try a 2,000-foot swoop on a hang glider at Lookout Mountain Flight Park).

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW

Local cave enthusiast Leo Lambert brought the 30-million-year-old Ruby Falls to light (along with all of its intriguing stalactites, stalagmites, columns and drapery formations) by crawling on his hands and knees in a 17-hour exploration of the unknown cave. It was a discovery he just happened upon in an attempt to reopen the original Lookout Mountain Cave in 1928. Rock City founder Garnet Carter capitalized on his wife Frieda’s lushly landscaped gardens that encompassed over 400 varieties of indigenous plants (and perhaps as many ornamental gnomes), by opening their private estate to the public during the Depression. He enticed vacationing motorists with a clever promotional campaign, turning barns into bucolic billboards with Rock City signage.

Even back then, they knew a good thing when they saw it. Today, Chattanooga’s geography continues to dazzle, with the Tennessee River carving a sightseeing niche of its own, from recreational paddling on the Tennessee River Blueway to dinner cruises aboard the Southern Belle Riverboat and eco-excursions on the River Gorge Explorer.

A river, indeed, runs through the city’s 21st Century Waterfront Plan, which has also included restoration of the historic Walnut Street Bridge, the world’s longest pedestrian bridge. Outdoor Chattanooga, a division of the city’s parks and recreation department, sponsors adventures in and out of the water.

Gracing the skyline with six soaring glass peaks, the Tennessee Aquarium anchors the riverfront revitalization. It’s a mesmerizing water world that houses more than 12,000 animals, from otters and alligators in the freshwater “River Journey” to sharks and penguins in the $30 million saltwater expansion “Ocean Journey.” The newest exhibit, “Jellies: Living Art,” features an ethereal gallery of jellyfish juxtaposed with sinuous glass sculpture.

A few blocks from the aquarium, the Hunter Museum of American Art offers an impressive collection of works from the colonial period to present day. The eclectic three-building structure commands a grand view atop a bluff overlooking the Tennessee River. Across the street, the Houston Museum of Decorative Arts is a treasure trove of glass pieces bequeathed to the city by eccentric antiques dealer Anna Safley Houston.

CULTURAL RENAISSANCE

Chattanooga’s thriving arts scene extends well beyond museum walls to working artist studios and a proliferation of galleries, bolstered by such ventures as Chattanooga Arts Tour and CreateHere. Outdoor art is everywhere, from Main Street to the Bluff View Art District, where the two-acre River Gallery Sculpture Garden serves as a green canvas for eye-popping pieces. In addition to fine art, this charming European-flavored haven – dotted with courtyards, fountains and ivy-draped balconies – embraces the culinary arts. Offerings range from

global cuisine at Back Inn Café to fresh-made pastas and breads at Tony’s to house-roasted coffees and hand-dipped chocolates at Rembrandt’s, all supporting local organic farms.

A whimsical spirit of creative abandon fills the city. This is, after all, the birthplace of the MoonPie (invented in 1917 by the Chattanooga Bakery) and miniature golf (yet another brainstorm of Rock City guru Garnet Carter). Chattanooga is a place to play. Nowhere is that more true than at the Creative Discovery Museum, a rip-roaring romp through science, art and music, where kids can do everything from piloting a riverboat to digging for dinosaur bones. The endless educational entertainment extends all the way up to the Rooftop Fun Factory, a sky-high playground rigged with pulleys, levers, bubbles and balls.

Two other great spots for families are the Chattanooga Zoo at Warner Park and Lake Winnepesaukah Amusement Park, offering plenty to see and do in a leisurely setting that’s easy to navigate on foot. The 72-year-old zoo, yet another city attraction blessed with a multi-million-dollar boost, is proud caretaker of more than 200 animals, from chimps and spider monkeys to snow leopards and red pandas. Behind-the-scenes tours and upclose animal encounters add to the experience.

Lake Winnie, just a short drive from downtown, has been in the family since Carl and Minette Dixon opened the seasonal amusement park to guests in 1925. Today, it still operates such classics as the Boat Chute (the oldest mill chute water ride in the country) and the Cannon Ball wooden roller coaster, as well as new thrill rides, all situated around the namesake lake, complete with paddle boats and shady pavilions for picnicking.

A WALK IN THE PARK

Both attractions feature beautifully carved carousels, as does Coolidge Park on Chattanooga’s North Shore, where woodcarver Bud Ellis led the charge to bring the vintage Denzel carousel (retired from Atlanta’s Grant Park) to town, restoring and

fi tting the 100-year-old ride with a menagerie of 52 hand-carved animals. Adjacent to the park is yet another grassy expanse: the 23-acre Renaissance Park, with walking trails and hilly overlooks showing off the scenery. For an even better peek at the region’s biologically diversity, check out the Chattanooga Nature Center, a wooded wonderland of wildlife, with boardwalk and trails, a fantastic treehouse and a new “Paddler’s Perch” creek-side cabin. The neighboring 300-acre Reflection Riding Arboretum & Botanical Garden is an oasis of natural beauty.

One of the nicest things about exploring such a vibrant city is being able to get out and walk. Everything is in close proximity, much facilitated by pedestrian-friendly pathways, foot bridges and downtown’s free electric shuttle.

There’s also a great selection of in-town accommodations, from upscale urban lodging at The Chattanoogan (complete with full-service day spa, fine dining and sidewalk espresso café) to spirited boarding at the historic Chattanooga Choo Choo Hotel. Headquartered at Terminal Station, the 24-acre complex celebrates the golden era of railroads, with on-site offerings including a model railroad museum, lodging aboard restored Victorian train cars, and even singing servers at The Station House Restaurant, which once housed the station’s baggage room.

While sightseeing downtown, don’t miss the sprawling Chattanooga Market, open on Sundays (April through early December). It’s a wonderful place to sample all the city has to offer. #chattanooga #tennessee #seerockcity #rubyfalls